Voron 2.4 build guide: parts, wiring, Klipper and first print

The Voron 2.4 is an open-source, fully enclosed CoreXY printer with a static bed and a gantry that moves in Z, levelled by four-point gantry tramming. Building one means ordering the parts from the official bill of materials (BOM), printing the plastic parts in ABS or ASA, assembling the frame and gantry, wiring the electronics, installing Klipper and running a first print. The Voron documentation at docs.vorondesign.com is the reference for every step, and this guide maps that path rather than replacing it.

Stock sizes are 250 × 250 × 220 mm, 300 × 300 × 280 mm and 350 × 350 × 330 mm, and the docs list the current release as V2.4r2. Voron’s own hardware page gives roughly $1,500–$1,900 for a 2.4; that is the project’s estimate and prices move, so total your own BOM. Everything below comes from the Voron docs as read in 2026. Where a number is a stock value or a starting point it is labelled as such, and anything the docs do not say is left out.

The build in eight stages

1. Pick your size and generate the BOM in the Voron Design configurator.
2. Order parts from the Voron sourcing guide, or buy a kit, and print the ABS/ASA parts.
3. Assemble the frame, belts, gantry and bed from the V2.4r2 manual.
4. Square the gantry using the V2 gantry squaring page.
5. Wire mains, DC power, drivers, heaters and endstops.
6. Install Klipper and a web interface, flash the controller and load the 2.4 printer.cfg.
7. Work through Initial Startup, then slice and print the Voron test cube.
8. Tune belts, bed mesh and input shaping.

Sourcing: BOM, kits and printed parts

Voron’s sourcing page calls the BOM “the absolute guide for what is actually required to build the printer”. You pick your printer in the Voron Design configurator and get a list customised to your size and options. The separate Sourcing Guide says where to buy each component, but it is not customised: its quantities are wrong for your build, so use the BOM for quantities and the sourcing guide for vendors. Several suppliers sell kits, and Voron does not endorse any kit vendor outside its own sourcing guide.

Substitutions are allowed, but the docs say the design is not meant to be as cheap as possible and that swaps can cause side effects, so ask before changing something. The sourcing FAQ is blunt about a few of them:

• Rails: V1/V2 require MGN9H. Wider MGN12 carriages interfere with the 2020 extrusions.
• Extrusions: V-slot profiles are discouraged because MGN9 rails are close in width to the slot, which can cause misalignment.
• Motors: 0.9° steppers are not recommended for Z and extruder; they need twice the steps and limit speed with the BOM controller.
• Active chamber heating: not supported, and the sourcing page cites fire risk from improper heater installation.
• Multi-material: there are no native Voron designs for dual extrusion, dual hotends or toolchangers; the docs only list community systems.

Printed parts

Printed parts are designed for ABS/ASA shrinkage (shrinkage set to 100%), because enclosed chamber temperatures often reach 55–60 °C and the material should have a glass transition of at least 80 °C. The materials page rates them as follows:

Material	Voron docs verdict	Reason given
ABS	Primary recommendation	Glass transition about 90–100 °C, moderate ductility
ASA	Fully supported	Properties very similar to ABS
PETG	Not recommended for parts	Glass transition about 70–80 °C; acceptable for skirts and panel clips
PLA / HTPLA	Not recommended for parts	About 55–60 °C and low ductility; acceptable for skirts and panel clips
Nylon (PA6), PC, resin	Not recommended	Creep under bolt pressure, cracking risk, or parts that keep shrinking

The sourcing page gives recommended print settings: 0.2 mm layers, 0.4 mm forced extrusion width, 40% infill (grid, gyroid, honeycomb, triangle or cubic), 4 walls, 5 solid top and bottom layers and no supports. A typical build needs about 1.5 kg of the primary colour and 0.3 kg of the accent colour, and the docs advise planning for about 2 kg of primary to cover reprints. A 0.6 mm nozzle is possible but not recommended because some walls are too thin. If you do not own a suitable printer, the docs point to Print It Forward, a vetted community service. For ABS print problems see the ABS warping guide and ventilate properly (ABS fumes and filtration).

Tools

The docs list as required: metric hex keys (1.5–5 mm), screwdrivers, wire strippers (16–26 AWG), small diagonal cutters, a soldering iron, a multimeter, metric calipers and crimpers for Molex, ferrule and terminal connectors. They add that building without these is possible but much harder.

Mechanical assembly and gantry squaring

Download the V2.4r2 assembly manual PDF from the mechanical assembly page and follow it in order. The docs highlight a few checks that are easy to skip:

• Frame squareness: measure the diagonals; they should differ by less than 2 mm.
• Belts: use GT2/2GT belts, keep the A and B belts the same length, and on the V2 keep all Z belts matched. Leave an inch or two of spare belt rather than cutting flush. Pulleys must not wobble.
• Washers: M5 washers are 1 mm ± 0.2 mm, so washer counts in the manual are guidance; use 0.5 mm washers or 1 mm shims for fine alignment.
• Bed screws: leave them slightly loose at first and tighten after a few heating cycles.

The V2 gantry squaring page exists because poor squaring causes first-layer problems, Z belts rubbing on printed parts and X-axis racking. In outline: keep the Z motors energised with SET_IDLE_TIMEOUT TIMEOUT=99999, home, run QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL (QGL), release the A/B belts and Z joints so the gantry sits flat, retighten, re-tension the A/B belts, heatsoak for at least 1½–2 hours, run QGL three to five times, then fully tighten the Z joint bolts while the printer is hot. The guide’s A/B belt value is 110 Hz over a 15 cm span.

Wiring: mains, DC power, heaters and endstops

The electrical page starts with a safety warning: line voltage (120 V or 220 V AC) is involved, so make sure the printer is unplugged and the PSU capacitors have discharged before touching any wire. If you are not comfortable with mains wiring, get someone qualified to check it. Never connect or disconnect devices while powered, because stepper drivers can be damaged. The page’s key requirements:

Item	What the docs say
Mains wiring	At least 18 AWG (0.75 mm²); 16 AWG (1.25 mm²) preferred
DC supplies	Tie the DC 0 V (V−) of all DC supplies together
Grounding	Ground the frame; ground an AC-powered bed even if the manual does not say so
SSR	Buy a quality solid-state relay; cheap clones can fail closed and cause thermal runaway
Bed protection	Add a 115–125 °C thermal fuse; keep the bed below 110 °C
Endstops	Prefer normally closed (NC) so a broken wire stops the machine instead of causing a crash
PL-08N probe	Needs 12–24 V; at 5 V its sensing distance drops enough to risk a nozzle crash; protect the MCU input with a BAT85 diode, black band facing the probe
Steppers	Verify wire colours and pin order on your motors; do not assume the BOM colours

Practise crimping first. The docs call bad crimps a common source of later problems. Gantry and drag-chain wiring uses silicone wire for flexibility, and terminations should be made before the wire enters the chain.

Klipper, printer.cfg and the first power-up

Stock Voron printers run Klipper on a Raspberry Pi. The docs recommend Mainsail or Fluidd as the web interface (both are lightweight and built for Klipper); OctoPrint works but needs more CPU and memory. Compile and flash Klipper to each controller using the guide for your board (the docs list SKR 1.3/1.4, SKR mini E3, FLY, Fysetc Spider, BTT Octopus and SKR Pico), then configure:

• Download the template for your printer from the Voron GitHub firmware folder (V2.4) and save it as printer.cfg.
• Find the controller with ls /dev/serial/by-id/ and set serial: under [mcu]. If the ID contains “marlin”, Klipper is not flashed correctly. A V2 with two controllers also needs [mcu z].
• Set thermistor types, endstop positions, position_max for your size, the TMC driver sections (2208 or 2209 to match your drivers) and the [quad_gantry_level] points.
• Add [include mainsail.cfg] or [include fluidd.cfg], then run FIRMWARE_RESTART. If Klipper is not Ready after 30–60 seconds, run STATUS to find the configuration error.

The stock template ships with kinematics: corexy, max_velocity: 350, max_accel: 3000, max_z_velocity: 50, max_z_accel: 350 and square_corner_velocity: 10.0. The docs call these aggressive: lower them if you have problems and raise them after tuning. The Initial Startup page is organised per printer model; select V2 and follow its checks for heaters, motors, endstops and homing in order before the first print. If you are new to Klipper, the Klipper migration guide and the mainboard guide explain the basics.

First print and tuning

The first-print page asks you to slice voron_design_cube_v7.stl from the Voron-2 repository (Voron2.4 branch, Test_Prints folder) with the default slicer profile. Its starting point for ABS is a 240 °C hotend, a 100 °C bed and 92% flow. Slicer setup recommends a preheat of at least 10 minutes so the frame reaches thermal equilibrium, and supports PrusaSlicer, Cura, SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer with built-in profiles. If your slicer puts M109 or M190 before the PRINT_START macro, use a newer or different slicer. Adjust the Z offset from the display’s Tune menu while the first layer prints.

Then follow Voron’s tuning guides: belt tension (the guide targets about 110 Hz on a 150 mm span for A/B, and about 140 Hz for V2 Z belts), bed mesh with BED_MESH_CALIBRATE (stock probe_count: 5,5 and algorithm: bicubic), then input shaper using Klipper’s guide. See belt tension and input shaping for the general method. Print tuning (pressure advance, extrusion multiplier, retraction) is left to Andrew Ellis’ print tuning guide, which the docs link.

Common mistakes

• Using the Sourcing Guide quantities. The BOM is the reference; the sourcing guide’s numbers are not customised.
• Printing structural parts in PETG or PLA. The materials page rejects PETG for structural parts because of its low temperature tolerance, and PLA because it is brittle at those temperatures.
• Wrong rail or extrusion substitutes. MGN12 and V-slot are the classic examples.
• Skipping squaring, heatsoak and preheat. The docs tie squaring to first-layer problems and racking, and Voron’s slicer page notes that a 350 mm V2 expanded 0.2 mm in height after an hour of heating.
• Running stock speeds on a first boot. Lower max_velocity and max_accel until the printer is tuned.
• Cheap SSR or no thermal fuse. The electrical page lists both as safety items, not options.

When a Voron is the wrong choice

The docs state limits plainly: no active chamber heating, no support for materials that need 100–130 °C chambers such as PEEK, and no native multi-material design. If you only want a reliable printer, a finished machine is faster. If you want to convert an existing frame instead, see the CoreXY conversion guide.

Frequently asked questions

How much does a Voron 2.4 cost to build?

Voron’s hardware page estimates $1,500–$1,900, but this is the project’s own figure and depends on size, vendors and whether you buy a kit. Generate the BOM for your size and price it yourself. Printing the parts in ABS or ASA needs about 2 kg of filament if you allow for reprints.

Can I print Voron parts in PETG or PLA?

The docs recommend ABS or ASA for structural parts. PETG and PLA are listed as acceptable only for skirts and panel clips, because their glass transition temperatures (about 70–80 °C and 55–60 °C) are low for an enclosure that often reaches 55–60 °C.

Do I need a Raspberry Pi?

Stock Voron printers run Klipper on a Raspberry Pi, with Mainsail or Fluidd as the web interface. The docs note that a Pi Zero, as on the Voron Legacy, requires Mainsail or Fluidd rather than OctoPrint.

Is a kit better than sourcing the BOM yourself?

Several vendors sell kits, and Voron does not endorse any outside its sourcing guide. A kit saves ordering effort; the BOM and sourcing guide give you control over parts. Whichever you choose, check it against the BOM.

Sources

• Voron documentation: Choosing a printer and extruder
• Voron documentation: Sourcing information
• Voron documentation: Materials selection
• Voron documentation: Electrical wiring
• Voron documentation: Software configuration
• Voron documentation: V2 gantry squaring
• Voron documentation: First print
• Voron documentation: Secondary printer tuning